In the Cordillera region, the art of weaving carries a history as intricate as the patterns it produces.
Among its most transformative champions was Leonarda “Narda” Capuyan, a Besao, Mountain Province native who wove together threads of tradition, innovation, and sustainability to build an enduring legacy.
Her story, viewed through the lens of her daughter, Lucia Capuyan-Catanes, at the recently held World Ikat Textiles Symposium in Baguio City, reveals the depth of Narda’s contributions to ikat and the lives of Cordilleran weavers.
Transition to ikat weaving
Narda’s journey from a family planning nurse to a renowned textile innovator was anything but conventional. In the early 1970s, she sought ways to empower mothers in rural mountain communities, encouraging them to weave to sustain themselves and curb the cycle of poverty.
What began as an experiment in weaving recycled acrylic yarns soon evolved into a revival of ikat, an age-old dyeing and weaving tradition.
Introduced to ikat by Ellen Schattsneider, a Peace Corps volunteer, Narda was captivated by its labor-intensive process of tying and dyeing threads before weaving. Combining ikat techniques with the Cordillera’s indigenous patterns, she created textiles bursting with life, color, and a unique cultural narrative.
“She loved sunsets and sunrises, so her colors were inspired by nature,” Lucia recalled. This inspiration translated into textiles that adorn homes, wardrobes, and galleries across the globe, celebrated for their vividness and modern adaptability.
Innovating with a purpose
Narda was ahead of her time in adopting sustainability.
The phrase “Sayang! Kailala!” (“What a waste!”) was her guiding principle. She repurposed factory discards—denim salvages, leather scraps, and waste yarns—into beautiful, functional items like rugs, bags, and wall décor. Her knack for seeing possibilities in what others discarded was instrumental in the development of eco-friendly designs decades before “upcycling” became a buzzword.
Lucia shared how her mother sourced denim scraps from a jeans factory and leather trimmings from a manufacturing company. These materials were sorted, cut, and woven into innovative pieces that blended artistry and practicality. Waste yarn too short to weave became pillow and upholstery stuffing, while fabric scraps were transformed into quilts and ethnic wall hangings.
Sustainability as a family value
Narda’s commitment to sustainability extended beyond materials.
With her husband Wilson Capuyan, Narda established the Winaca Eco-Cultural Village in Benguet. The 33-hectare site not only serves as a workshop location but also represents their shared vision of environmental and cultural preservation. The mahogany trees and indigenous plants they nurtured now provide natural dyes for Narda’s fabrics.
Lucia, who trained with the Philippine Textile Research Institute, has built on her mother’s legacy. In 2016, they launched Narda’s Naturals, an environmentally friendly clothing line using dyes from plants like turmeric and cogon, as well as mahogany trees. Even Lucia’s daughter, Madeleine, has embraced the craft of natural dyeing, ensuring the family’s legacy is passed down to future generations.
Enduring global impact
Narda’s contributions were not limited to the Philippines. Her textiles graced the shelves of Bloomingdale’s in New York, Neiman Marcus, and Hudson’s Bay in Canada, earning her international acclaim.
Her many awards, including the Golden Shell Award for export excellence and the Countryside Investor Award, underscore Narda’s impact as a designer and a community builder. She was also chosen to be the Philippines Ernst & Young Small Business Entrepreneur of the Year in October 2013.
By providing livelihoods to hundreds of indigenous weavers, Narda empowered women to uplift their families and preserve their heritage. Her work also redefined how indigenous crafts could find relevance in contemporary markets by blending tradition with modern utility.
Carrying the torch
As Lucia noted during her presentation, Narda’s legacy goes beyond the textiles she created. It lives on in the livelihoods sustained, the environment nurtured, and the cultural heritage preserved through Narda’s Handwoven Arts and Crafts.
“Sharing my mama’s legacy would not be complete without her voice reminding me, ‘Sayang! Kailala!’” Lucia shared with a smile. “It’s a philosophy of seeing value in everything—and everyone.”
Today, Narda’s remains a family-run enterprise, with Lucia leading efforts to innovate while honoring the legacy her parents started. The workshop continues to train new generations of weavers, blending artistry with sustainability to ensure that ikat weaving remains alive for the next generation.
Through her visionary work, Narda Capuyan was able to prove that the ties that bind us—both as communities and stewards of the earth—are strongest when woven with intention, creativity, and a genuine desire to uplift everyone’s lives.
